淡水舊砲台遺跡-SB20:35.11.14

Tamsui Old Gun Emplacement Monument-SB20: 35.11.14

1935

紙本鋼筆Pen on paper

13.5×18.2cm

私人收藏Private collection

作品相關資料


古戰場已沒有了煙硝味,破敗的遺跡裡盡是寧謐安詳。滬尾砲臺只餘下一片斷垣殘壁,數十年前法、日軍隊的砲火聲響都已渺遠。牆的背面曾發生一場爆炸,在陳澄波的年代,堡壘坍塌的痕跡猶存。[1]視線越過城牆,是鄰近球場的房舍屋頂,清朗的天空裡還有飛鳥翱翔。最遠方的兩座山見證了歷史流轉,人世一夕數變,只有山依然蒼翠。

As the smoke of gunpowder had disappeared from the age-old battlefield, the run-down site of the remains is tranquil and peaceful. The thundering of cannons from the French and Japanese armed forces had quieted down several decades ago, and Hobe Fortress (i.e. Tamsui Old Gun Emplacement) is a desolate scene with debris. An explosion had gone off at the back of the wall, and the ruins of the collapsed fortress still existed in the year when Chen Cheng-po made this sketch.1 The line of vision crosses over the fortress wall to meet the rooftop of the house located on the nearby golf course, and there are birds flying in the clear blue sky. In the farthest background, two mountains have witnessed the changes in history. There have been tremendous changes in the human world, whereas the mountains remain verdant.

1. 滬尾砲臺Hobe Fortress

滬尾砲臺建築於中法戰爭期間,一度毀於法軍砲火,[2]戰後由劉銘傳新聘德國技師修建完成,並題名為「北門鎖鑰」。砲臺的設計與工法都引用19世紀末歐洲的先進技術,但在日本時代被殖民政府所廢置。
Constructed during the Sino-French War, Hobe Fortress was bombarded and damaged by the French army.2 After the war, Liu Ming-chuan (the first inspector-general in Taiwan) commissioned a German technician to restore the Fortress and inscribed the name of the Fortress as Pei Men Suo Yao (i.e. the Gateway to Northern Taiwan). The design of the Fortress and the workmanship were advanced techniques brought in from Europe in the late 19th century. However, the Fortress was abolished by the colonialist government in the Japanese rule period.


12 inch Gun in Tamsui Fort. 參閱James W. Davidson(達飛聲), The Island of Formosa: Past and Present, 1903, p.311.

2. 兵舍Barracks

砲臺內原本存在一座四合院式的兵舍,供駐守此地的軍人起居。日本時代,逐漸破敗的砲臺成了旅遊手冊裡的特色景點,[3]吸引遊人駐足。到了陳澄波作畫的1935年,砲臺裡的兵舍只餘下畫中的一面殘牆,到今天仍留有部分遺跡。
Formerly a quadrangle-style barracks was situated in the Fortress to be quartered with soldiers. In the Japanese rule period, the increasingly run-down Fortress became a distinctive view on the landscape illustrated in the tourist manuals, which broadened its appeal among visitors.3 In 1935, when Chen Cheng-po made this sketch, the barracks in the Fortress was reduced to a broken wall as depicted in his picture. The remains of the barracks can still be seen in the Fortress.

 


轉引自臺北縣國定古蹟滬尾砲臺修復或再利用計畫,p59。
Source: A Project to Renovate or Reuse Hobe Fortress, a Nationally Designated Heritage Site in Taipei County, p. 59.

 


轉引自臺北縣國定古蹟滬尾砲臺修復或再利用計畫,p57。
Source: A Project to Renovate or Reuse Hobe Fortress, a Nationally Designated Heritage Site in Taipei County, p. 57.

3. 高爾夫球場的歐式房舍The European-style House on the Golf Course

在城牆與樹叢背後露出半截屋頂的房舍,是淡水高爾夫球場的會館,也是日本時代富商名流的交誼場合。當時的企業家三卷俊夫形容這座球場有老樹、有涼風,有大屯山與觀音山的環抱,還能欣賞帆船的河上漫遊,風景美不勝收。
The house with half of its rooftop sticking out from behind the fortress wall and groves is the guildhall of Tamsui Golf Course, which was also a social club for wealthy merchants and celebrities in the Japanese rule period. Mimaki Toshio, an entrepreneur of the time, made this description: Surrounded by Ta-tun Mountain and Guanyin Mountain, the Golf Course has old trees and cool breeze, where one can also enjoy the view of overlooking sailboats roaming on the river. In a word, the Golf Course has too many beautiful things to be fully appreciated.

淡水古地圖,美軍航照影像,1945/06/17。
An old map of Tamsui, an aerial photo taken by the American army, 1945/06/17


1939, 岡田紅陽撮影, 臺湾囯立公園寫真集, 淡水ゴルフハウス[13]
Photographer Okada Kōyō, “Tamsui [13],” A Photo Album of National Parks in Taiwan, 1939.
 

4. 老虎窗Dormer Window

凸出於屋頂斜面上的三角形天窗是「老虎窗」。[4]淡水的其他一些洋樓建築,例如馬偕故居、理學堂大書院等等,都能見到類似的設計。但這幢洋樓可能為了採光上的考量,窗面開得更大。
The triangular skylight projecting from a sloping roof is a dormer window (called “tiger window” in Chinese).4 Some Western-style buildings at Tamsui, such as George L. Mackay’s former residence and Oxford College, have similar designs. However, probably for the sake of lighting, the window of the Western-style building is much larger.

理學堂大書院  Oxford College
 


馬偕故居  George L. Mackay’s former residence


淡水老照片。左側的建物屋頂,也有突出的老虎窗。
An old photograph of Tamsui. A building to the left also has a dormer window projecting from the roof.
 

5. 親子Parent and Child


戴帽子的小女孩以及撐傘的大人,頻繁地出現在陳澄波的作品當中。著名的幾幅油畫,如〈夏日街景〉、〈嘉義街景〉,也能見到這兩種點景人物的並置。
The scene of a little girl wearing a hat together with an adult propping an open umbrella is prevalent in the works by Chen Cheng-po. These two staffage are also put side by side in his distinguished oil paintings like the Summer Street Scene and Chiayi Street Scene.



6. 面天山與向天山Mian-tian Shan and Xiang-tian Shan

從淡水砲臺朝東方遠望,左右兩個渾圓的山頭分別是面天山與向天山,皆屬於大屯火山群。左側較低矮的小山頭則是巴拉卡山,日本時代臺灣第一位醫學博士杜聰明,便生長於山腳下一座名為車埕的小村莊裡。
Looking far into the east from Hobe Fortress, you will find two perfectly round hilltops called Mian-tian Shan and Xiang-tian Shan (i.e. the twin peaks facing the sky); they belong to a group of volcanic peaks in the Ta-tun Mountain area. To the left, the lower and smaller hilltop is Ba-la-ka Shan. Tu Tsung-ming, the first Doctor of Medicine in the Japanese rule period, was born at Che-cheng, a small village at the foot of Ba-la-ka Shan.


Peak finder viewpoint 淡水


[1]  李乾朗主持,《臺北縣國定古蹟滬尾礮臺修復或再利用計畫》(臺北:臺北縣政府文化局,2010)頁44-45

[2] 北門鎖鑰即《法軍侵臺始末》地圖所記之「新礮臺」(FORT NECF),這是歷史學者周宗賢的推論,參見氏著,〈江頭礮臺──中法戰爭被遺忘的礮臺〉,收錄於氏著,《淡水──輝煌的歲月》(臺北:臺灣商務印書館,2007),頁51

[3] [日]柴山愛藏,《臺灣之交通》(臺北市:臺灣交通研究,1925),頁104

[4] 李乾朗,《臺灣古建築圖解事典》(臺北:遠流出版社,2003),頁199-200